Abineau Bear Jaw Loop: The Quiet North Face of the San Francisco Peaks

The trailhead has no sign. That single fact filters out most of the people who might otherwise hike one of the best loops on the San Francisco Peaks.

The Abineau Bear Jaw loop climbs the north face of the mountains through old-growth spruce-fir forest and talus fields. It’s 7.1 miles of genuine terrain, with 1,800 feet of elevation change and one steep canyon section that’ll have you reaching for handholds on the way down. The Humphreys Peak Trail a few miles away gets crowds. This route gets almost nobody.

Trail Overview

The loop combines three trails: Bear Jaw Trail, a short connector section on Waterline Road, and Abineau Trail. Total distance is 7.1 miles with 1,800 feet of elevation gain. The trailhead sits at 8,500 feet. The high point of the loop reaches roughly 10,500 feet.

Difficulty: strenuous. Not because the distance is extreme, but because the Abineau Canyon section drops 1,800 feet over 2 miles on loose, rocky terrain that requires careful footwork the whole way down. Trekking poles are useful here.

No permit. No fee. This is Coconino National Forest land.

The trail is accessible from July through October most years. Snow covers the north-facing slopes well into June, and the access road often stays muddy after snowmelt. By November, the approach road becomes impassable without a four-wheel-drive vehicle and snow tires.

Getting There

From Flagstaff, take US-180 north for about 7 miles from downtown. Watch for Forest Road 418 (Waterline Road) on the right, east side of the highway. It’s an easy turn to miss. There’s no prominent sign. Look for a dirt road heading east toward the base of the mountains.

Follow FR 418 east until the road ends. It’s a rough dirt road, about 4-5 miles depending on current conditions. High clearance is strongly recommended. The road has washboard sections, embedded rocks, and can develop ruts after rain. A pickup truck or SUV handles it fine. A passenger sedan will have a bad time.

Park at the road’s end. The trailhead is here, and it genuinely has no Forest Service sign. You’ll see the trail heading into the forest. Both Bear Jaw and the Waterline Trail connector start from this same area.

Cell service on the approach road is unreliable. Download offline maps in Gaia GPS or AllTrails before leaving Flagstaff.

From Phoenix, the drive is about 2.5 hours north on I-17 to Flagstaff, then follow the directions above. Gas up in Flagstaff. There are no services north of town on US-180.

Trail Description

Miles 0-2.5: Bear Jaw Trail

Start on the Waterline Trail heading east from the trailhead. This connector runs along the lower slopes for roughly 0.5 miles before the Bear Jaw Trail branches off to the left heading uphill. Take Bear Jaw.

The ascent on Bear Jaw is long and steady but manageable. You gain elevation through ponderosa pine that transitions into mixed conifer as you climb. Engelmann spruce and corkbark fir take over above 9,500 feet. The north-facing aspect keeps this forest darker and moister than the south slopes. The trees are bigger, the understory denser. It feels different from the Humphreys Peak Trail, which climbs a drier ridgeline.

The altitude starts working on you through this section. You’re starting at 8,500 feet and climbing. Slow down before you feel like you need to. The mountain rewards a controlled pace more than most trails in Arizona.

Watch for Abert’s squirrels in the ponderosa zone. They’re large squirrels with distinctive tufted ears, and they’re abundant on the San Francisco Peaks.

By mile 2.5, Bear Jaw Trail tops out at the upper connector, a short section of the old Waterline Road that links Bear Jaw to the top of Abineau Trail.

Mile 2.5-3.1: The Upper Connector

The connector section traverses the mountain at around 10,000 to 10,500 feet. It’s only about 0.6 miles, but the views open up in ways you haven’t seen on the forested climb below. You’re above much of the tree cover here. The volcanic summit of the San Francisco Peaks rises above you. Agassiz Peak and Fremont Peak are directly overhead.

This is where you’ll feel the altitude most. At 10,000 feet, you’re breathing noticeably harder than at the trailhead. Take your time on this traverse. Look around. The north face of these mountains is rarely seen because most hikers approach from the south through the ski resort.

The connector ends at the top of Abineau Trail. You’ll see the steep drop into Abineau Canyon ahead of you.

Miles 3.1-5.1: Abineau Canyon Descent

This is the hardest part of the loop. The Abineau Canyon section drops 1,800 feet over 2 miles. That’s an average grade of 17 percent, and in stretches through the canyon it gets steeper.

The terrain is loose and rocky. Volcanic rock, talus chunks, and steep dirt make every step a decision. Trekking poles make a real difference here. Your quads will be working hard to control the descent.

In places the trail is more of a route than a maintained path. You’ll use your hands in a few sections. Nothing technical, but you need both hands free.

The canyon walls close in through the steepest sections. On a cool morning, the shade and the old-growth spruce create an enclosed, quiet atmosphere that’s completely different from any other hike near Flagstaff. You might not see another person in this canyon all day.

If you find seasonal water running in the drainage, it’s worth stopping. The sound of moving water in the middle of an Arizona desert hike is unusual enough to appreciate.

The canyon opens at the lower end where Abineau Trail rejoins the Waterline Trail connector. From here it’s a short walk back to the trailhead.

Miles 5.1-7.1: Waterline Trail Back to Trailhead

The Waterline Trail connector runs along the base of the mountain and returns you to the starting point. This section is flat to gently rolling after the canyon descent. It’s a good place to drink water and let your legs recover before you reach the car.

The forest transitions back to ponderosa pine in this lower section. After two miles of steep canyon terrain, the flat walking feels almost easy.

What to Bring

Water is the first priority. Carry 2 liters minimum. The trail has seasonal water in Abineau Canyon but it’s not reliable, especially later in summer. If you’re hiking in warm conditions or running hot, bring 3 liters.

Trekking poles matter more on this trail than on most Flagstaff hikes. The Abineau Canyon descent is steep and loose. Poles transfer load to your arms and give you two more contact points on the rocky sections. If you have them, use them.

Footwear with ankle support is the right call. The talus and loose rock in the canyon descent will test ankle stability in ways a flat trail won’t. Our hiking boots guide covers options that handle both rocky technical terrain and the high-elevation cold you’ll encounter above 10,000 feet.

Layers. At 10,500 feet, the upper connector section can be cold and windy even in summer. A lightweight windproof shell packs flat and makes a real difference if clouds come in.

A hydration pack beats water bottles on a loop like this because you don’t have to stop to drink, which matters when you’re managing your pace on a steep descent.

Sun protection above 9,000 feet is serious. UV exposure increases at altitude. A sun hoody covers your arms without the weight of sunscreen reapplication, which matters when you’re deep in a canyon and not thinking about it.

Safety Notes

Afternoon thunderstorms are the primary hazard from July through mid-September. The upper connector at 10,000 feet is above or near treeline, which means lightning exposure. Check the Flagstaff forecast the night before. Start early, no later than 7am, so you clear the upper section by 11am before afternoon storms develop.

The canyon walls in Abineau Canyon are steep enough that there’s no quick exit if conditions turn. If you hear thunder while in the canyon, move down as fast as you safely can to get back to the lower trail.

Read the monsoon and flash flood guide for the broader pattern that controls storm development on the San Francisco Peaks. The timing is predictable once you understand it.

Altitude affects most visitors. The trailhead at 8,500 feet is already higher than most trails in the state. People who drove up from Phoenix the same day they hike often feel headaches or unusual fatigue on the ascent. Spend a night in Flagstaff first. Drink water the day before. The effect is real even if you’re fit.

Cell service is absent for most of this trail. Tell someone your plan, expected trailhead return time, and what to do if you don’t check in.

Related Trails

Humphreys Peak Trail climbs the same mountain from the south side. It’s more crowded and better maintained, but reaches Arizona’s highest point at 12,633 feet. If you want the summit, go that way. If you want solitude and the north face experience, Abineau Bear Jaw is the better choice.

Kachina Trail contours the base of the San Francisco Peaks at 9,500 feet for 5.1 miles one-way. It’s the lowest-commitment high-elevation trail on the mountain, with fall aspen color that draws people from across the state in late September.

Both start from Arizona Snowbowl. The Abineau Bear Jaw loop requires the approach drive to the Waterline Road trailhead, which is half the point. That extra effort is exactly why the canyon stays quiet.